REVIEW: Soil by Matthew Evans

Anyone familiar with Matthew Evans knows he does not do things by halves. When he embraces a subject or practice he does so fully, researching the theory and getting to grips with hands-on practice. He believes in doing as he preaches, and his is a philosophy of real, nutritious food that is sustainable, local and ethical. Which brings us to Soil, his newest book.

Matthew Evans

An ex-food critic and former chef by trade, Evans likes to look at the whole food chain, from seed to dish and from nose-to-tail. He knows the provenance of every ingredient he prepares and eats and he likes rooting out the truth, being fully prepared to accept any challenging facts that arise. Matthew’s last book, On Eating Meat, was a thorough look at the impact of consumer choices regarding meat, and he was not afraid to confront readers, both carnivores and vegans. With his new book, he looks at the incredibly crucial (and criminally overlooked) role that soil has in food yields, flavour and nutrition. And, as you’d expect, he’s seriously inquisitive and comprehensive in his project.

Firstly, it is worth noting that soil is not dirt. It is not an inert medium, but an ecosystem, a place of life, a biome. To quote author Jon Stika, “Without biology, soil is just geology”. Created by the actions of microorganisms, nematodes, fungi and decay, good soil teems with life, making a mix of nutrients and trace elements bioavailable to plants. Evans’ brilliant book examines how humans have constantly misunderstood the implications of good soil, and how if we value tasty, nutritious produce for all, we must start to seriously love our precious topsoil. Soil structure, and how it is affected by tilling and tampering of humans, is of course covered at length, but there’s so much more here: stuff about micro and macro nutrients, chemical transfer, carbon cycles, atmosphere and climate.

Along the way the reader will learn some astounding things about the interaction of fungal hyphae, microbes, bugs and worms. In fact, one of the inescapable themes of this book is the interaction and interconnectedness of systems. Our effect on the soil, and its effect on us, the balance of agencies that can set up the correct levels of minerals and proteins in our plants; all beautifully and clearly explained here. There are introductions to some truly astounding cutting edge research into a range of subjects including the effect of soil microbes on rainfall, and even upon our mood. Often this book reminds me of Simon Winchester’s best work, where the side tangents are so diverting and amazing that the reader is stopped in their tracks and made to ponder. It is a brilliant conversion starter, full of “Oh wow” bits you just have to share.

Thankfully, unlike other books on soil regeneration, Soil is aimed at all of us, from urban dwellers with a few herbs growing in a box, to farmers with hectares to manage. How we all treat our own soil, and how our consumer choices influence others, can change for the better. We live in a world where our elaborate industrialised food chain has rewarded the production of bulky blemish-less vegetables. The widespread use of artificial fertilisers, insecticides and herbicides, plant selection for size, and monocultural agriculture has had a devastating effect on our soil, and our health. Because of big business farming, our food lacks flavour and has more calories and less micronutrients than the homegrown products of our grandparents’ yards. Worse than this, our food production has become simply unsustainable. But we can change this, and people are doing just that, around the world, working organically with small scale and plant diversity.

Evans enthusiastically proclaims the ways great soil can be created by nearly everyone, and includes plenty of practical tips and encouragement. He pulls examples of best practice from ancient civilizations and modern science, all centred on the successful cycling of organic matter, and a healthy respect for the elements. Evans looks to the future too. Soil is not an optional factor in agriculture, and to replace it with new technology like hydroponics may be yet another short-term expedience at the cost of real food. We need to get back to basics and get it right this time. And there is so much more to learn.

This is a remarkable book, one of great passion and high intelligence. As an avid organic gardener for decades, with a lively interest in soil, I found this book to be revelatory, full of so many concepts I’d not encountered, or viewpoints I’d not considered. It immediately changed the way I thought of my humble garden, my compost, my local organic markets, and my supermarket. Soil is also a kind of nexus, bringing together diverse topics. Readers of Giulia Enders’ Gut , Merlin Sheldrake’s Entangled Life, and Charles Massy’s The Call of the Reed Warbler will find that this book extends and connects those books in a fascinating way. Exciting reading for those who love ideas, this book touches on so many possibilities for a sustainable and more successful way of life, let alone farming. I recommend it to the farmer, gardener, grocery shopper and food enthusiast alike. Like its humble subject, this impressive book should not be overlooked.

—Soil: The incredible story of what keeps the earth, and us, healthy by Matthew Evans (Murdoch Books) is out now.

Soil

The incredible story of what keeps the earth, and us, healthy

by Matthew Evans

What we do to the soil, we do to ourselves.

Soil is the unlikely story of our most maligned resource as swashbuckling hero. A saga of bombs, ice ages and civilisations falling. Of ancient hunger, modern sicknesses and gastronomic delight. It features poison gas, climate collapse and a mind-blowing explanation of how rain is formed. For too long, we've not only neglected the land beneath us, we've squandered and debased it, by over-clearing, over-grazing and over-ploughing..

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Robert O'Hearn

Robert O'Hearn is the non-fiction specialist at Booktopia HQ. He has been a bookseller for over three decades and can't seem to stop. He is an aspiring apiarist and likes playing Joy Division songs on mandolin. He is generally harmless.

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