Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

ContentsIHenry VIII: The Man and his ImageHenry VIII's physical form ~ The king's painted image ~ Charting change in the king's appearanceIIHenry VIII: European Prince and King of EnglandMagnificence and the role of royal dress ~ Asserting royal authority through dress ~ Creating a sense of Englishness through dress ~ Henry VIII in a European context ~ Henry VIII's interaction with the three leading European powers: the Papacy, the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire ~ Royal wardrobes and royal style: analysis of four case-studies: Elegant conspicuous consumption of clothes: Francis I; Following French fashion: James V; Growing disinterest: Charles V and Masking failure: Christian IIIIICreating Magnificence: The Role of the Great WardrobeThe great wardrobe: its function, premises and staff ~ The queen's wardrobe ~ Great wardrobe documentation: warrants and accounts ~ Evidence of clothing provision found in other royal accounts ~ The price of magnificence: the budget for the great wardrobe ~ Selecting fabric for the king ~ Other royal fabric stores ~ Suppliers to the great wardrobe ~ An absence of objects made by the great wardrobeIVThe Cycle of Royal Life: Coronations to FuneralsCoronations ~ The regalia ~ Coronation robes: the joint coronation of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon; Individual coronations: Henry VII and Edward VI, Mary I and Elizabeth I; Queen consorts: Elizabeth of York, Anne Boleyn; Henry's other queens ~ Betrothals/Marriages by proxy, Henry VIII's betrothals, Prince Arthur to Catherine of Aragon, Margaret Tudor to James IV of Scotland, Mary Tudor to Charles, Prince of Castile, Mary to Louis XII of France, Princess Mary to Francis, the Dauphin, Princess Mary and Charles V, Prince Edward and Mary, Queen of Scots ~ Marriage, Henry VIII: Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, Catherine, Lady Latimer (nee Parr); Establishing the dynasty: Henry VII and Elizabeth of York, Prince Arthur and Catherine of Aragon, Margaret Tudor and James IV of Scotland, Mary Tudor and Louis XII of France ~ Christenings: Henry VII's children, Henry VIII's children, Other royal christenings ~ Churchings ~ Preparation for death: Henry VII ~ Obsequies: the living remembering the dead ~ Funerals and burial: Henry VIII, Henry VII; The Tudor queens consort: Mothers of sons: Elizabeth of York and Jane Seymour; the Princess Dowager: Catherine of Aragon; Execution and private burial: Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard; Surviving the king: Anne of Cleves and Catherine Parr; The king's sisters: Mary and Margaret Tudor; Royal children: Infants; AdolescentsVHenry VII: Establishing the House of TudorMale dress in the late fifteenth century ~ The Yorkist courts ~ Henry VII ~ The opulence of Henry VII's court ~ Henry VII's wardrobe ~ Elizabeth of York ~ Lady Margaret Beaufort ~ Henry VII's children: Prince Arthur, Princess Margaret, Prince Henry, Princess Mary and Prince Edmund ~ Catherine of AragonVIHenry VIII's Wardrobe Unlock'dHenry VIII's wardrobe: male dress in the first half of the sixteenth century ~ Creating and defining the male image: gowns, doublets and hose ~ Variety in the male wardrobe: the glaudekin, gabardine, cloak, frock, coat, cassock and nightgown ~ Alternatives to the doublet: jackets and jerkins, chammers and shamews ~ Accessories: partlets, placards, stomachers, petticoats and tippets ~ Clothes for bathing ~ Sporting dress ~ Clothes for combat and the tilt yard: brigandines, bases and base coats, arming doublets and hose ~ The king's linen: shirts, night shirts, night caps and handkerchiefs ~ Headwear ~ Footwear ~ Gloves ~ Girdles ~ Purses and pouches ~ Swords and daggers ~ Walking staffs ~ The king's jewellery ~ The use of jewels on the king's clothes ~ Material choices: textiles fit for a king ~ Rainbow colours: the significance of colour of the king's clothes ~ Patronage and perquisites: giving away the king's clothes ~ Gifts and purchases: adding to the king's wardrobe ~ A point of comparison: the wardrobe of James VVIIHenry VIII's Ceremonial Wardrobe: Observing the Ritual YearThe weekly cycle: Sunday observance ~ Days of estate, crown wearing days and days for wearing purple and scarlet ~ Provision made by the great wardrobe for Candlemas, Palm Sunday and Maundy Thursday ~ Days of mourning ~ Mourning dress ~ Ceremonial robes: the order of the Garter, the order of the Golden Fleece and the order of St Michael ~ The king's parliament robesVIIICaring for the King's Clothes: The Wardrobe of the Robes and the LaundryThe king's wardrobe of the robes: a route to success ~ The queen's wardrobe of the robes ~ Ordering clothes for the king ~ Caring for the king's clothes ~ Specific packing materials ~ Transporting clothes ~ Documentation ~ Perfuming the king, his clothes and his rooms ~ The physical context: buildings for storage and rooms for dressing ~ The royal laundryIXFemale Fashions at Henry VIII's CourtChoosing a queen ~ Queenship in early modern England ~ The court as a centre of female fashionable dress ~ The form and function of female clothes ~ Undergarments: smocks, shifts, bodies, farthingales and petticoats ~ Principal garments: the gown and the kirtle ~ Items worn in association with the gown and the kirtle: foreparts, sleeves, furs and tippets, stomachers, placards, partlets and neckerchiefs ~ Maternity wear ~ Outdoor dress: cloaks and special clothes for riding and walking ~ Informal wear: nightgowns ~ Mourning ~ Accessories: headwear and footwearXAn Expression of Individuality: An Analysis of the Wardrobes of Henry VIII's Wives and SistersCatherine of Aragon ~ Anne Boleyn ~ Jane Seymour ~ Anne of Cleves ~ Catherine Howard ~ Catherine Parr ~ The queen's jewels ~ Looking outside his marriage vows: the king's mistresses ~ Royal siblings: the king's sisters: Margaret, queen of Scots and Mary, queen of FranceXIThe King's Children: Dressed to ImpressConsummation, pregnancy and birth ~ Establishing the queen's chamber and the royal nursery ~ The staff of the nursery ~ Children's dress ~ Clothing the king's children: Lady Margaret Douglas, Princess Mary, the duke of Richmond, Princess Elizabeth and Prince Edward ~ Lady Jane GreyXIIThe Henrician CourtThe court ~ The role of a favorite at the Henrician court: the duke of Suffolk, Thomas Wolsey, Thomas Cromwell ~ Symbols of status: the significance of noble robes ~ The ennoblement of peers ~ The creation of knights ~ The knights of the Bath ~ Membership of the order of the Garter ~ Court politics and foreign policy: meetings with the Emperor, 1520 and 1522, the Field of Cloth of Gold, 1520, the meeting at Calais in 1532 ~ Ambassadors ~ Godparenting ~ Gifts of clothing ~ Dress as an expression of treason ~ Noble prisoners and executions ~ Male youth culture at court ~ Revels, disguisings, mummeries and jousts ~ Celebrating Advent and Christmas ~ Courtly love: St Valentine's day ~ Dress disguising royaltyXIIIThe Royal Household: Form, Function and LiveryForm and function ~ Livery and retaining ~ Types of livery issued within the king's household: the use of two-colour livery, large-scale provision of single-colour livery to the whole household, red livery coats, annual changes in livery colour, badges and livery collars and other symbols of officeXIVLivery for the Households of Henry VII and his FamilyHenry VII ~ Elizabeth of York ~ Lady Margaret Beaufort ~ The households of the king's children ~ Royal charityXVHenry VIII's Household: The Domus Magnificencie and the Domus ProvidencieThe household above stairs: the chamber, the privy chamber, the fool, the musicians, the chapel royal, the closet and the vestry and medical men ~ The household below stairsXVIOutside the Household: The Stable, the Hunts and BeyondThe stable and the master of the horse ~ The king's ape ~ The king's hunts: the buckhounds, the leash, the toils, the bows and the longbows, the falconers, hunt officers not provided for by the great wardrobe ~ The barge ~ Livery issued 'out of court': the great wardrobe, the king's works, other government officials and links with cities: caps of maintenanceXVIITudor Military SplendourThe yeomen of the guard ~ The band of spears or pensioners ~ The gentleman pensioners ~ Royal messengers ~ The kings of arms, heralds and pursuivants ~ Military roles for Henry VIII's nobility ~ The rank and file of the king's military forces: flags and banners; Conduct coats: france, Scotland, Ireland, naval expeditions, garrisons ~ Royal entries as part of military campaignsXVIIIThe Households of Henry VIII's Wives, Sisters and ChildrenThe queen's household ~ Acquiring a position within the queen's household ~ The households of Henry VIII's queens: Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard Catherine Parr ~ Short-term provision for the king's sisters ~ The households of the king's children: Princess Mary; the duke of Richmond; Princess Elizabeth and Prince EdwardXIXThe Royal ArtificersThe principal artificers: the king's tailor; the queen's tailor; the king's hosier; the queen's hoiser; the king's skinner; the queen's skinner; the king's embroiderer; the queen's embroiderer; the king's silk woman; the queen's silk woman ~ The minor artificers of the royal wardrobe: the king's armourer to his spurrier: the king's armourer; the king's bitmaker; the king's coffer maker; the queen's coffer maker; the king's cordwainer; the queen's cordwainer; the king's cutler; the king's feather maker or plumier; the king's goldsmith; the queen's goldsmith; the king's jeweller; the king's milliner; the king's saddler; the queen's saddler and the king's spurrierXXMaking the Tudor WardrobeTailoring books ~ Patterns ~ Equipment ~ Selection and orientation of the top fabric ~ Linings ~ Interlinings and facings ~ Padding and stiffening ~ Sewing thread ~ Seams and hems ~ Fit and shaping ~ Fastenings: buttons, clasps, hooks, latchets and pins, dress hooks, lacing, points and girdles ~ Decorative techniques: paning, slashing, cutwork, pinking and clocking ~ Guards, borders, crests and edges ~ Applied trimmings or passementerie ~ Surface decoration: embroidery, quilting, stoolwork and goldsmith's work ~ Creating a magnificent impressionXXITranscription NotesXXIIThe Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley in December 1516, edited from British Library MS Harley 2284XXIIIThe Inventory of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley on 17 January 1521, edited from British Library MS Harley 4217