Acknowledgements xvi Preface xvii How to use this book xix Chapter 1 Contexts 1 Introduction to the city 1, History 4, Modern Lille 6, The future 7 Chapter 2 Planning 9 The city: a practical overview 9, When to visit 14, Tourist information 16, Tour operators 17, Red tape 17, Time 18, Getting there and away 18, Travelling with pets 25, Health 26, What to take 27, Money and budgeting 27 Chapter 3 Lille for Visitors with Limited Mobility 29 Planning a trip 29, Getting there and away 29, Getting around 32, Accommodation 33, Eating and drinking 33, Nightlife 34, Museums 34 Chapter 4 Practicalities 35 Tourist offices 35, Consulates 36, Banks and money matters 36, Communications 37, Worship 41, Travelling with children 41 Chapter 5 Local Transport 45 Metro, trams and buses 45, Tour bus 49, Airport transfers 49, Taxis 49, Car hire 50, Cycling 51 Chapter 6 Accommodation 53 Bon weekend - bon prix 54, Hotels 54, Selfcatering 63, Hostels 66, Bed and breakfast 67 Chapter 7 Eating and Drinking 73 Budgeting 75, Opening hours 75, Where to eat and drink 75, Bistros and estaminets 76, Brasseries 85, Restaurants 91, Wine bars 110, Cafe society 113, Bars, cafes and tea rooms 114, Vegetarian 123 Chapter 8 Nightlife and Entertainment 125 Theatre 125, Cabaret and casino 127, Cinema 129, Music and dance 130, Clubs 134, Gay listings 136, Leave the country 138 Chapter 9 Shopping 141 Opening hours 143, Accessories 143, Books 143, Clothes 144, Cosmetics and perfume 148, Crafts 148, Florists 153, Food and wine 153, Gifts 157, Home 158, Home entertainment/music 159, Jewellery 160, Markets 160, Pharmacies/chemists 161, Supermarkets/ department stores 162, Under one roof 163 Chapter 10 Walking Tour 165 The walk 165 Chapter 11 Museums and Sightseeing 169 Prices and opening hours 169, The unmissables 169, Museums and galleries 172, Sites and monuments 174, Churches 184, Other arts and cultural venues 187, Maisons Folies 190, Parks and gardens 193 Chapter 12 Beyond the City 197 Roubaix 198, Seclin 201, Tourcoing 202, Villeneuve d'Ascq 204, Wambrechies 207, Beyond the Metropole 208, Hiking and biking 214 Appendix 1 Language 216 French 216 Appendix 2 Further Information 221 Essentials 221, Entertainment 221, Local transport 221, Travellers with limited mobility 221, Gay Lille 221, Modern Lille 222, Maps 222, Other Bradt guides 222 Index 225