"June is a time when the vineyardist thins and trains shoots, which seem to grow inches a day. During thinning and training one learns intimately about the personality of the grapevine. It is a strange creature, and one can see why in ancient Greece and Rome it represented the cycles of life. The bark on the main trunk tends to be cracked and crumpled, hanging in threads in some places, and reminiscent of a withered old man. It's not pretty to look at. But the vine comes to life in the smooth brown canes that were young growth the year before, and then in the tender, rubbery green shoots of the current season."
In 1998, Gary and Rosemary Barletta purchased seven acres of land on the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake. Descending to the west from the state route that runs along on the ridge overlooking the lake, the land was fertile, rich with shalestone and limestone bedrock, and exposed to moderating air currents from the lake. It was the perfect place to establish a vineyard, and the Barlettas immediately began to plant their vines and build the winery about which they had dreamed for years.
The Barlettas' story, as John C. Hartsock tells it, is a window onto the world of contemporary craft winemaking, from the harsh realities of business plans, vineyard pests, and brutal weather to the excitement of producing the first vintage, greeting enthusiastic visitors on a vineyard tour, and winning a gold medal from the American Wine Society for a Cabernet Franc. Above all, Seasons of a Finger Lakes Winery describes the connection forged among the vintner, the vine, and terroir. This ancient bond, when tended across the cycle of seasons, results in excellent wines and the satisfaction, on the part of the winemaker and the wine enthusiast, of tasting a perfect harvest in a single glass.
Today, Long Point Winery sits on seventy-two acres (eight of which are under cultivation with vinifera grapes) and produces sixteen varieties of wine, a number of which are estate wines made from grapes grown on their property. With interest in winemaking continuing to grow, the Barlettas' experience of making award-winning wines offers both practical advice for anyone running (or thinking of running) their own winery, whether in the Finger Lakes or elsewhere, as well as insights into the challenges and joys of pursuing a dream.
In 1998, Gary and Rosemary Barletta purchased seven acres of land on the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake. Descending to the west from the state route that runs along on the ridge overlooking the lake, the land was fertile, rich with shalestone and limestone bedrock, and exposed to moderating air currents from the lake. It was the perfect place to establish a vineyard, and the Barlettas immediately began to plant their vines and build the winery about which they had dreamed for years.
The Barlettas' story, as John C. Hartsock tells it, is a window onto the world of contemporary craft winemaking, from the harsh realities of business plans, vineyard pests, and brutal weather to the excitement of producing the first vintage, greeting enthusiastic visitors on a vineyard tour, and winning a gold medal from the American Wine Society for a Cabernet Franc. Above all, Seasons of a Finger Lakes Winery describes the connection forged among the vintner, the vine, and terroir. This ancient bond, when tended across the cycle of seasons, results in excellent wines and the satisfaction, on the part of the winemaker and the wine enthusiast, of tasting a perfect harvest in a single glass.
Today, Long Point Winery sits on seventy-two acres (eight of which are under cultivation with vinifera grapes) and produces sixteen varieties of wine, a number of which are estate wines made from grapes grown on their property. With interest in winemaking continuing to grow, the Barlettas' experience of making award-winning wines offers both practical advice for anyone running (or thinking of running) their own winery, whether in the Finger Lakes or elsewhere, as well as insights into the challenges and joys of pursuing a dream.
Industry Reviews
"Harstock writes for an intelligent but nonexpert reader. His journalistic background lets him use dialogue and scene development to carry the story forward, but his strength is in teaching the reader a great deal about vineyards and making wines without seeming pedantic. Tucked into these pages are short yet illuminating explanations of vine biology, the economics of small wineries, the chemistry of fermentation, historic and modern trellising systems, techniques of pruning, accounts of grape diseases, stories of ancient Greek wine parties, and even the ramifications of the modern wine bottle (which emerged in 1760).-Zachary Nowak, Gastronomica (Fall 2013) "Everyone who savors the flavor of a fine glass of wine likely has at one time or another dreamt of producing their own... Organizing his book by season, John C. Hartsock shares vignettes that illustrate the hard work and perseverance required as well as the heartbreak that comes when one tiny mistake ruins a year's output. This detailed book ... will be of great interest to those contemplating the winery business, even if just someday to tinker in their basement."-Library Journal "Seasons of a Finger Lakes Winery is a delightful account of the agrarian life and cycles of the winemaking life. Gary Barletta has succeeded in creating wonderful wines from the Finger Lakes that stand up beautifully in the world of wine. Reading about the behind-the-scenes creation of grapes and wine is a delectable treat to savor."-Louis Damiani of Damiani Wine Cellars in Hector, New York "In telling the story of Gary and Rosemary Barletta and their Long Point Winery, John C. Hartsock captures the essence of the small farm winery experience with all of its hard work and ample rewards. The seasons of growth and labor in the vineyard and winery are described in a narrative that encompasses the interesting history of the winery. For the reader who wants to understand the fundamentals of grape growing and winemaking and what it takes to open a successful winery, this is an excellent book. Seasons of a Finger Lakes Winery is also a story of dreams and aspirations, and wine enthusiasts will be inspired by these pages."-Hudson Cattell, editor of "Wine East" in Wines & Vines and coauthor of Wine East of the Rockies "Seasons of a Finger Lakes Winery is a very compelling, complete, and accurate portrayal of the workings of a small family-operated estate vineyard and winery. By looking at grape growing and winemaking through the narrative of the Barletta family, John C. Hartsock vividly shows the hardships and satisfactions that come from planting grapevines in the fertile yet demanding environment of the Finger Lakes. This book is an exceptional addition to the burgeoning literature about wine grapes and the people who grow and ferment them."-Ian Merwin, Professor of Horticulture and the Viticulture and Enology Program, Cornell University, and manager of Black Diamond Orchard and Vineyard
