CONTENTS
Foreword ..................................................................................... i
1st Wave - Longboards to Shortboards
- Growing up in southern California as longboards transitioned to shortboards in
surfing.
1. Waxing Up ................................................................................ 3
2. Malibu and the Greatest Generation ........................................ 6
3. Crown of the Sea ..................................................................... 18
4. Heaven on Earth ...................................................................... 29
5. Mexican Miracle ....................................................................... 44
6. Leisure Society ......................................................................... 57
2nd Wave - The Sun is Setting
- The legacy Mom and Dad passed on to the grandchildren.
7. The Spirit of Char ....................................................................... 69
8. Lessons for the Grandchildren ................................................... 75
3rd Wave - Eight Feet, Cold, and Glassy
- Riding the Silicon Valley Express while discovering the best (and coldest) waves of
my life.
9. Riding the Wave in Silicon Valley ............................................... 87
10. Circle of Life .............................................................................. 96
11. Peace of Mind ............................................................................ 106
12. HODADS .................................................................................... 113
4th Wave - Stoked!
- Excited about my future as I paddle into new territory.
13. New Beginnings ........................................................................ 121
14. The 2X4 .................................................................................... 127
15. Slow Down ................................................................................ 133
16. "We don't do email ..." ............................................................... 141
17. Surfing without a Leash ............................................................. 148
5th Wave - Paradise
- God's promise of Heaven and the wonder that awaits us there.
18. Begin with the End in Mind ..................................................... 157
19. Opening Day in Paradise ........................................................ 163
20. Heaven Can't Wait ................................................................... 171
21. Tides of Evidence .................................................................... 182
6th Wave - Rock Dance
- Learning to dance through life.
22. "A Lotta Shit ..." ........................................................................ 195
23. Stop and Smell the Roses ........................................................ 198
24. Marathon Faith .......................................................................... 203
7th Wave - Kicking Out
- Knowing my future is secure in Heaven as I prepare to kick out.
25. The Future Is Secure .......................215
26. Kicking Out.......................................219
8th Wave - The Perfect Wave
- My imperfect sketch of surfing in Heaven.
27. Surfing in Heaven .......................227
28. The End of the Story ..................240
Acknowledgements ......................252