List of Contributors xv
Society of Dyers and Colourists xvii
Preface xix
1 The Structure of Wool 1
John A. Rippon
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Composition of Wool 2
1.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 5
1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 14
1.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 32
1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 32
1.7 Conclusion 35
References 35
2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43
John A. Rippon
2.1 Introduction 43
2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43
2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50
2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 52
2.5 Dye Aggregation 55
2.6 The Role of Fibre Structure in Wool Dyeing 60
2.7 Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing 66
2.8 Conclusion 68
References 69
3 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75
A.C. Welham
3.1 Introduction 75
3.2 Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries 76
3.3 Brightening Agents 81
3.4 Levelling Agents 82
3.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing 88
3.6 Antiprecipitants 89
3.7 Wool Protective Agents 89
3.8 Low-Temperature Dyeing 90
3.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings 92
3.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness 93
3.11 Antifrosting Agents 95
3.12 Antisetting Agents 95
3.13 Sequestering Agents 96
3.14 Conclusion 96
References 97
4 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99
D.M. Lewis
4.1 Introduction 99
4.2 Wool Scouring 99
4.3 Wool Carbonising 100
4.4 Shrink-Resist Treatments 102
4.5 Insect-Resist Treatments 108
4.6 Flame-Retardant Treatments 115
4.7 Antisetting Agents 116
4.8 Fibre Arylating Agents 120
References 126
5 Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131
Keith R. Millington
5.1 Introduction 131
5.2 Wool Colour 132
5.3 Wool Bleaching 138
5.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool 144
5.5 Photostability of Wool 145
References 153
6 Wool-dyeing Machinery 157
Jamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton
6.1 Introduction 157
6.2 Top Dyeing 158
6.3 Loose Stock Dyeing 162
6.4 Hank-Dyeing Yarn 166
6.5 Yarn Package Dyeing 171
6.6 Piece Dyeing 178
6.7 Garment Dyeing 179
6.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing 182
6.9 Drying 183
6.10 Dyehouse Automation 186
6.11 Laboratory Dyeing 192
References 203
7 Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205
P.A. Duffield
7.1 Introduction 205
7.2 Acid Dyes 208
7.3 Natural Dyes 213
7.4 Mordant Dyes 214
7.5 Specific Dyeing Methods 226
References 227
8 Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229
Stephen M. Burkinshaw
8.1 Introduction 229
8.2 Dye Structure 230
8.3 Dye Application 242
8.4 Environmental Aspects 248
References 248
9 Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251
D.M. Lewis
9.1 Introduction 251
9.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool 252
9.3 The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes 253
9.4 Application Procedures 260
9.5 Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool 281
9.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre 285
9.7 Conclusion 287
References 287
10 Dyeing Wool Blends 291
D.M. Lewis
10.1 Introduction 291
10.2 Wool/Cotton 293
10.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres 303
10.4 Wool/Silk 305
10.5 Wool/Nylon 310
10.6 Wool/Polyester 323
10.7 Wool/Acrylic 341
10.8 Conclusion 351
References 352
11 The Coloration of Human Hair 357
Robert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel
11.1 Introduction 357
11.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair 359
11.3 Natural Colour of Hair 360
11.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing 364
11.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes 365
11.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration 366
11.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing 369
11.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing 375
11.9 Conclusion 386
References 387
12 Wool Printing 393
P.J. Broadbent and M.L.A. Rigout
12.1 Introduction 393
12.2 Preparation for Printing 394
12.3 Direct Printing 399
12.4 Discharge Printing 405
12.5 Resist Printing 408
12.6 Digital Printing 412
12.7 Wool Blends 418
12.8 Cold Print Batch 420
12.9 Transfer Printing 421
12.10 Novel Effects 425
References 426
Index
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